Perth Voice Interactive

NOT a Ganesh nor photograph of the Taj Mahal is to be seen at Sauma in Northbridge.

This is modern Indian dining, a cavernous space of polished concrete, raw brick, long tables, huge timber-framed windows onto William and James Streets, and funky blue and white light fittings—lots and lots of them—interspersed with shabby-chic timber screens high overhead.

The eatery is chef Gurps Bagga’s first foray out of Fremantle and his multi-award gold plate-winning restaurant Maya.

There’s plenty on the menu for traditionalists, with tandoor, koftas and samosa, but it’s elevated to modern Indian dining, the sort enjoyed by the sub-continent’s rising middle class rather than their parents.

“You have to try the beer-battered onion bhaji, and garlic naan,” a couple sitting by the door say as my companion and I enthuse about the decor.

They also rave about the lamb ribs ($16), twice-cooked with sweet tamarind, chili, mint and coriander.

Local, fresh and seasonal produce is order of the day, Mr Bagga says, and the menu features wagyu beef samosas ($6), with house-made beetroot ketchup. There’s a nod to Gurps’ port roots with Fremantle octopus salad ($14) with mung sprouts, coriander, tamarind and roast peanuts, and Shark Bay prawns ($28) with eggplant and tamarind in a spicy cumin sauce.

The chef’s special is a bheja fry—lambs brains with caramelised onion, tomato and coriander ($14).

My mate and I opt to share the suggested bhajis, a Cone Bay barramundi curry ($27), malai kofta ($17) and naan ($4).

Bhaji aren’t Indian at all but were created for the onion ring-loving Brits: Sauma adds that other Pommy obsession, deep-fried batter.

The result is bhaji, but not as you know it. An ultra-crisp batter with a moist onion filling, topped with tamarind sauce and crunchy pickled radish—and utterly moreish.

The fish curry is flavoursome, with its mix of shallots, ginger, green chili, wonderful fresh curry leaves, beans and coconut milk.

But the stand out is the vegetarian kofta with ricotta, potatoes, in a mild cashew nut sauce, and taken to unimagined heights by the use of dried figs. (It’s topped by fresh fruits when in season and I can’t wait).

The desserts are as fresh and original as the rest of the menu, with a white chocolate phirnini (a kind of rice pudding) with watermelon and a lime syrup, and saffron and cardamom-poached pear chai kulfi (ice cream) with a salted caramel peanut praline ($10), and a delicious range of teas, chai and coffee.

The curtain was about to go up at the Blue Room next door, and it was time to depart, but return visits are definitely on the cards.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Sauma
Cnr William and James
Streets, Northbridge
open Tues–Thurs 5–10pm,
Fri–Sun 11.30am–3pm,
5–11pm
9227 8682