Perth Voice Interactive

THE bombsite that is to be Elizabeth Quay was creating traffic and parking chaos—and rain wasn’t helping, as the D’Angers plus friend struggled to get to the Annalakshmi.

Dimly-lit corridors had us treading carefully as we picked our way between mesh fences, our destination on the Barrack Street Jetty sparkling tantalisingly just out of reach.

This eatery is amazing on so many levels, not least its location, right on the river almost in the heart of the city, with walls of glass giving gorgeous views. It’s going to be amazing when the sand and concrete and earthmoving equipment is gone. I can only imagine what the rent is, which makes eating here even more amazing, because you pay what you think your meal is worth.

Happy punters seemed to be handing over between $10–$15 for a tin tray loaded with delicious vegan curries.

Our mate Greg was a little dismayed to learn he was being led by the D’Angers to an animal-product free zone: “Not even an egg?” he whimpered.

He perked up when he thought he spotted prawns in the golden-yellow biryani, but lapsed into despondency upon realising it was red capsicum.

But, after ploughing his way through a stacked plate he was completely won over by the fare, and talked about coming back with his wife.

Colourful saris dotted the Saturday night crowd of the busy restaurant and, despite the rain, the evening was warm enough to make sitting on the wrap-around verandah pleasant, so we joined the queue winding its way to the bain-maries, confident of a table.

Smiling followers of hindu swami Shantanand Saraswathi volunteer at the eatery, cooking food, serving and washing up, as part of their spiritual journey.

Steaming mounds of biryani and plain rice in the warmers were lined up next to a peppery soup, curries and parathas.

The seemingly innocuous cauliflower curry’s rich red should have been a warning to beware the heat under the great flavour.

The dhal was delicious, and I liked the fact it wasn’t blended to a paste but kept the integrity of the lentils. I’m a sucker for a potato curry and made a pig of myself working my way through way more than I should have, but it was just so damn good.

Well fortified, somehow the return journey seemed less hazardous.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Annalakshmi
Jetty 4 Barrack Square, Perth
9221 3003
open 7 days 12–3pm and 6.30–9pm