Perth Voice Interactive

PHOTOGRAPHER Matthew Dwyer reckons he’s too unsophisticated to appreciate the subtlety of his lunch, but he’s quick to see the artistic beauty of its presentation, snapping pics from every angle.

His smoked tuna ($18) really was perfection on a plate, delicate slices topped with noodle-like strands of radish and sesame seed.

But what really gave it a zing was the ponzu sauce. The Japanese citrus-base marinade is traditionally made from rice wine vinegar, fish flakes and seaweed but this was made in-house, with a new twist, a combination of soy sauce, lemon juice (from the trees out the front), aga aga and olive oil—and magic worked to create a “caviar”, master magician, chef and owner, Tom Randolph says.

Number 4 Blake Street has gone very upmarket since I visited last year, and the restaurant is exclusively for degustation.

Right next door is the aptly named Next Door at No 4, part-small bar part cafe/restaurant.

The specials board reeled me in with one of my favourites, a house-made gnocchi ($19).

It was as smooth as a baby’s bottom, with a subtle flavour. But there was no subtlety about the cherry tomatoes, which exploded with a flavour so intense I had to ask what was going on.

Tossed in a pan so hot it’s almost smoking, the tomatoes took on a flambe taste, further intensified by the addition of oil, which obligingly burst into flame.

Setting fire to the pan is looked down on in Italian cooking but Randolph defines his own rules: “The flavour I really like is seen as a negative,” he tells the Voice.

And it’s working for his customers, including me, who love the smokiness, whether with gnocchi, or in the breakfast bruschetta.

Everything is made in-house at Number 4, including some of the best sourdough bread I’ve ever eaten—which is complimentary.

My lunch companion and I gazed at the house-made cakes, but having eaten two serves of bread, had to be satisfied with a terrific long-black coffee and a piping hot, hot chocolate.

Next Door at Number 4
4 Blake Street, Northbridge
9444 6678
Next Door open 7 days breakfast and lunch; small bar, degustation evenings & fine dining lunch Wed–Sun

by JENNY D’ANGER