Perth Voice Interactive

THERE’S no pasta, no pizza and — some will sigh, sadly — no horse head on the menu at No Mafia in Northbridge.

The mafia may enjoy Hollywood-like notoriety outside Italy but the Cosa Nostra is very much on the nose back in the old country of Sicily, with “no mafia” signs bravely sprouting on businesses.

Italiaphobes Emma Ferguson and Dan Morris were so impressed with the restaurateurs’ defiance during a recent extended trip they used the tag for their new bar/restaurant.

“It’s a very passive movement and we wanted to do our bit,” Ms Ferguson says.

The result is a very trendy little eatery with a modern twist on old-style Italian cuisine and ways of doing business: “[A] bit more of a modern take on Italian food,” Ms Ferguson says.

Our welcome was as warm as a Roman summer and our charming Italian waiter very knowledgable, recommending the Italian Pippoli Basilica ($7) when I said I liked dry white, and an Apricus Hill pinot noir ($10) for my friend who prefers red.

They were so good we ordered another each. Hic.

Seated at a bench table overlooking the vibrant William Street scene, we kicked off with a serve of Bread in Common sourdough ($2.50), which we slathered in olive oil and salt already on the table.

Spinach and gorgonzola arancini ($3.50) arrived next, and I was thankful for the advice to order individually, because having to share the small but delicious morsel could have led to a Tony Montana-style ending for my friend of many years. Crisp on the outside, and sharp and gooey inside it was divine.

A deep bowl of piping hot triple-cooked potatoes with chili, rosemary and aioli ($13), had us diving in like seagulls, before tackling the charred eggplant ($16), with ricotta, tomatoes and pangrattato (breadcrumbs with pinenuts, lemon, parsley and oil).

Everything so far was exceptional but the standout was the grilled octopus, sitting atop Italian hummus. Eighteen smackers seemed a bit steep for the relatively small serve but the flame-grilled pieces were wonderfully tender and, oh, so delicious.

Sweets sounded pretty good—yes, there’s cannoli! (ricotta, chocolate and orange, $12)—but I’m keen to return to try the gorgonzola cheese with honey. With the bell about to ring for Extinction at the State Theatre we had to forego the pleasure. This time.

by JENNY D’ANGER

No Mafia
189 William Street, Northbridge
6162 6405
open Tues 4pm–late, Thurs–
Sun noon–late, closed Mon