Rustic and real

VOICE snapper Matthew Dwyer has a great eye for a photo, but no node of location, so despite giving him directions as I searched for parking I still arrived well ahead of him for our lunch.

In fairness The Peasant’s Table is invisible from the street, and last time I was at the Mezz shopping complex this area was a barren wasteland of bitumen parking.

“What a difference,” I thought, taking in the mature trees and flowering wisteria in the delightful alfresco garden.

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Inside is funky, modern and spacious, but my colleague and I headed outdoors to relax in deep lounge chairs to peruse the menu.

The food is sourced fresh, and as locally as possible to be whipped into delicious meals by chef Martin Swindells (Vans in Cottesloe and Harvest in North Fremantle).

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There are daily specials and Tuesday’s taco with Shark Bay whiting ($8) sounded interesting, but the house-made ricotta gnocchi ($24) caught my eye.

Firm but fluffy, the gnocchi was the perfect foil for the peperonata — a mix of Italian bell peppers, tomatoes, oil, onion and garlic — which added a sweetness that melded beautifully with the sharpness of goats cheese, and the bitterness of kale. It really was a match made in foodie heaven.

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Matthew was feeling in need of something substantial, and ordered the Cone Bay barramundi, with white bean cassoulet (stew), pork belly, sausage and smoked tomato ($35).

“A great combination of taste and texture,” he opined as a forkful of the oily bean mix was followed by the succulent fish, with its wonderfully crisp skin.

Meanwhile we spied a couple of massive pretzel-knot rolls of pulled pork arriving at the table next door, which were quickly devoured.

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“It was great—so tender,” was the verdict from the devourees.

With neither time nor room for dessert we ordered coffee for me and hot chocolate for my mate, who was very excited to find a rich, dark chocolate on the saucer–as was I. Tiny teddies are all very well but chocolate and coffee really is the way to round off a good meal.

by JENNY D’ANGER

The Peasant’s Table
148 Scarborough Beach
Road, Mt Hawthorn
open 7 days breakfast and lunch, dinner Wed–Sat
9242 4297

 

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