Perth Voice Interactive

A UNIVERSITY course for ice-cream making? Now that’s something I’d happily head back to school for. Which is exactly what Northbridge’s Chicho Gelato owners Carly and Chez De Bartolo did.

For Carly, a pharmacist, and Chez, an engineer, the gloss had dimmed on their chosen professions, and inspired by London’s pop-up eateries during a four-year working holiday decided to start their own business.

Chez grew up in a Fremantle/Italian family and the choice was obvious: “There’s no authentic gelato shop in Perth that we know of,” he says.

A four-week course at Bologna University, Italy, taught the basics, but the couple wanted to do their own thing: “[We] have taken it further…we don’t use pre-made ingredients, which is why we have such a good reaction, because people can taste the flavours.”

Ingredients such as lavender, honeycomb, kaffir lime, persimmon and macadamia nut are sourced locally and prepared in-house.

“The only paste we purchase is pistachio from Italy,” Chez says, pointing to the “100 per cent pistachio” on the label.

Fior de latte translates loosely as “flower of milk”, or “the best part of the milk”, consisting simply of milk, cream and sugar it’s popular on its own in Italy, but Perth palates have yet to discover it, Chez says.

Four-litre batches are made daily to ensure freshness, before a mind-boggling selection of flavours is added.

Like party hats, silver pozzetti — a bit reminiscent of the way ice cream was served in a 1950/60s ice cream parlour — line the counter awaiting customers’ selection.

The individually sealed freezer compartments ensure there’s no cross contamination, and stops oxygen breaking down the gelato crystals: “[And] you don’t need to add preservatives.”

The De Bartolos started off with an ice cream cart, peddling their wares at markets and functions — it’s a real hit at weddings: “It was great, but we are concentrating on our store now,” Chez says, spooning another creamy gelato taster my way.

I’d had a fig a couple of months ago and was smitten, but the ingredients are seasonal and I’ll have to wait till next summer.

But there were plenty more to choose from, including a delicate creamy lavender-scented delight, a marscapone, quince jam and smoked almond, a lime and coconut and a “salted caramel crack”, made with crushed crackers.

“It’s a play on words because it’s quite addictive.”

My favourite, (until fig season) is the macadamia, the in-house roasted nuts giving it a real kick-arse flavour.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Chicho Gelato
180 William Street, Northbridge
open Mon–Wed 12–10pm,
Thurs–Sat 12–11pm,
Sun 11am–10pm