Perth Voice Interactive

I had planned to try some continental rolls from a deli in the North Perth Plaza, when I got into a tussle with two pensioners.

It was like a cross between Cocoon and Saving Private Ryan as they engaged in an ‘elbow war’ to bypass me and reach the front of the queue.

I was conciliatory and waved the white flag, letting the elderly platoon capture the bain-marie and take the sausage rolls hostage.

The food didn’t look that good, the queue was taking forever and those decrepit Rambos were preparing for another assault on Hamburger Hill, so I decided to leave the Plaza and try my luck on Fitzgerald St.

Maybe it’s the tight road, heavy traffic and parking chaos, but there’s something about this little strip of North Perth that feels decidedly ‘angry’ with everyone driving like lunatics and pedestrians in a mad rush.

With deadline looming, I opted for the low-key U Dumpling & Bento, across the road.

The eatery was small and unassuming with some bench seats by the window (always good if you are eating on your own) and a few tables and chairs.

It was one of those joints with photos of food on the window and lots of bright cards with Chinese writing on the walls, advertising things like phone cards.

Some of my most enjoyable meals have been in places that look a bit skew-whiff and on occasion like a low budget horror movie, so I was hoping this was another diamond in the rough.

The menu was a laminated one-page job with a range of steamed housemade dumplings (vegetable, prawn and chive, beef and spring onion), bao (pork and onion, pork and carrot), bento boxes (teriyaki salmon, katsu chicken) and sides (takoyaki, squid salad, spring rolls).

It wasn’t long before the man behind the till was back with my very reasonably priced mixed dumplings (12 for $12.80).

While the dumpling casings didn’t have that glossy, freshly-made look, they were nice and soft and had a pleasant texture.

The standout was probably the chicken and corn. I’ve never tried a steamed dumpling with corn before, but it added a nice sweetness and texture.

The beef and spring onion were another highpoint with the strong meat and lively onion creating a good flavour punch.

Bringing up the rear was the pork and Chinese cabbage, a nice combo with the filling having an interesting mix of textures.

Once doused in soy sauce and chilli oil, the dumplings burst into life and it was a decent feed for the money, but nothing exceptional.

It wasn’t long before I was tucking into my Japanese curry beef bento ($14.80).

There was a nice mix of tender beef, carrot and onion, but the sauce was a tad watery and unfortunately didn’t have thick curry tang.

I enjoyed the mound of sticky rice, but the side salad was a bit baffling with sweetcorn (again) and some red and white cabbage. It felt like a bit of an afterthought.

The guts of the bento were nice, but it was let down by the sauce.

If you’re in a fix and need a quick cheap lunch, U Dumpling & Bento is worth a shout.

Or you could don your tin hat and take your chances in the North Perth Plaza.

“Form the Square!”

U Dumpling & Bento
410 Fitzgerald St, North Perth

by STEPHEN POLLOCK