Perth Voice Interactive

SCARLET-faced, sweaty and on the verge of passing-out – I felt like I was in the hot box in The Bridge on the River Kwai.

I was actually in Mary Street Bakery on a stinking hot Tuesday afternoon, and it appeared there was no air conditioning.

I took refuge under a large ceiling fan in the main dining area, but it was just circulating hot air and turning the cafe into a giant fan-assisted oven (even the table was hot to the touch).

Undeterred, I dusted down my khaki shorts and Victory Cross and got on with it – perusing the one-page menu that was available from 7am-3pm.

A mix of breakfast, brunch and lunch there was everything from slow cooked eggs and escargot to steak sandwich and sticky pork belly noodle salad.

It was a modern and diverse menu with the fried chicken and buttermilk pancakes a particular favourite with locals.

There was also a good range of pies, sausage rolls, sandwiches, salads and cakes in the display counter.

The service was friendly and prompt (despite the intense heat) and the smiley waitress was soon at my table with a free carafe of ice cold water and my berry smoothie ($9.50).

It’s got to be the best berry smoothie I’ve ever had – lovely thick consistency and a delicious mix of fresh raspberry, blueberry and banana.

The crushed almonds gave it a nice texture and a nutty refrain, while the orange honey added a touch of fragrant sweetness. Perfect.

It wasn’t long before the waitress was back with my zucchini fritters ($19). In middle age, I seemed to have developed an addiction to zucchini fritters and like to try them from different cafes.

These caught me by surprise – the fritters were more like chunky pakora and the whole dish had a dark, exotic curry-vibe, courtesy of the smoked tomato chutney. It had shades of Indian cuisine with a bit of heat.

The fritters were a delight and had a satisfying crunch and a light, fluffy filling.

They were surrounded by red and orange cherry tomatoes, and that intense, smoky tomato chutney.

Scattered liberally across the plate was a smorgasbord of herbs (almost a mini herb garden) with the fresh basil and mint adding a fragrant twist.

Completing the rustic picture was a fried egg (I prefer poached but this was perfectly cooked with a slightly runny yolk).

It was a fantastic dish with top quality produce, but probably better for lunch, unless you like your brunch dishes dark, exotic and a bit lively.

I’ve previously visited Mary Street Bakery with the family for breakfast and all the dishes were excellent (the bap with chilli jam, HP sauce, bacon and fried egg is a great hangover cure).

I can see why Mary Street Bakery has a top reputation and has expanded across Perth, but they need to get the air con sorted at their Highgate outlet.

Even Alec Guinness would struggle with that heat…

by STEPHEN POLLOCK

Mary Street Bakery
507 Beaufort Street,Highgate
marystreetbakery.com.au