Noodle heaven

I HATE when “street food” is gentrified and fancy restaurants charge more than $30 for basic wok dishes.

It’s not only a rip-off but a betrayal of the simple but delicious flavours synonymous with Asian “fast food”.

That’s why I like Oxford Noodles – there’s no pretension and most of the dishes are under $20, which is a rarity these days.

But what’s the quality like? There’s no point going budget if they serve beef tougher than Paul Hogan’s face and chicken drier than the Gobi Desert.

I fired up the Voice jalopy and headed to Leederville to investigate.

The eatery is situated about halfway Oxford St, opposite the Re Store, and it was easy to get parked on a Monday lunchtime.

There was a small queue of delivery folk and customers at the till, which was a good sign early in the week when places can be deserted.

The menu had a wide range of Asian dishes including various noodle combos, mee goreng, szechuan, black bean, sambal chicken fried rice and char kway teow. They also did noodle soup, veggies dishes, bentos, sushi, family packs and sides like satay chicken skewers and takoyaki.

It had a nice variety with all the old favourites, plus some more adventurous fare.

The inside was clean, basic and modern with a few utilitarian tables and chairs and a tiny pavement alfresco outside. Throw in the ubiquitous flashing “OPEN” sign and some crude artwork featuring a noodle box, and you’re all set.

My nasi goreng ($17.50) had a lovely mix of tender chicken and plump shrimps.

The produce was good quality and there was lots of it, with the slightly spicy soy sauce adding an exotic tang.

The fried rice was tasty and overall it was a very enjoyable nasi goreng.

Across the table my wife “Special K” was tucking into her satay chicken fried rice ($17.50).

“The satay paste has just the right level of spice and while thick, doesn’t become sickly or overpowering,” she noted.

“The rice is bang on – fluffy, light and plenty of flavour – and there’s a decent assortment of veg in there.”

My young kids Bamm-Bamm and Pebbles shared a black bean beef noodles ($16.40).

The huge portion easily fed both of them and this superior black bean had a moreish sauce and plenty of tender beef.

There was a good assortment of fresh veg (sometimes it can be non-existent in a noodle dish) and the sauce was well balanced (it pleasantly teetered on the brink of being too salty).

The thick egg noodles soaked up that divine sauce and it was an addictive number.

We rounded things off with some veg spring rolls (five for $9.80). They had a crispy batter and yummy filling.

The portions were huge at Oxford Noodles – one meal could probably feed an adult over two nights – the quality was great and the prices were bang on. 

So stuff your pretentious, bijou street food and give me genuine wok dishes any day of the week.

Oxford Noodles
238 Oxford St, Leederville
http://www.oxford-noodles.tuckerfox.com.au

by STEPHEN POLLOCK

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