Perth Voice Interactive

IT was like going in a time warp to a different era.

Before placing your order at the deli in The Re Store, you have to manually pull a paper ticket, with a number on it, from a machine that looks like it has been around since the days of JFK.

My number was “24”, which I doubt has any cosmic significance (I’ll let you know after Thursday’s Powerball) but it wasn’t long before one of the pleasant, super-busy ladies behind the counter was calling it out.

Adding to the feeling of yesteryear was the big, faded family photos on the walls, including one of original owners Giovanni (John) and Maria Re.

But for me, the ultimate nostalgia trip is the alcohol section.

A clinking grotto of grog from across the world, it has a wonderful variety of exotic-looking wine bottles and cans.

A spectacular throwback, it’s an immersive experience, and for a split second reality is suspended as you buy vino for Sophia Loren in Sorrento in 1965.

But I was on strict work duty, so no drinky poos for me – I was hear to try the food.

Re’s filled rolls, especially the continental, are legendary (the long queue of people in front of me attested to that) but what are their hot meals like?

There was a range of cooked pasta in containers at the deli, so I grabbed a gluten free creamy mushroom gnocchi and a saffron and zucchini risotto (both $13.95) to take home for the family dinner.

To get the tastebuds warmed up, we started with four baby arancini ($4.50 each)

They are usually cheese or mushroom-based, but these were stuffed with minced beef and peas.

While not as moreish and decadent as their classic cousins, it was a tasty diversion and almost like an Italian samosa without the spicy kick. File under different and enjoyable.

The large serving of risotto easily fed two adults.

It was a creamy and filling affair with large chunks of skin-on zucchini and gloopy rice.

The flavours were spot on and it was filling, but it was more of a side-dish and got a bit monotonous towards the end.

Maybe a wider variety of veg would have held my attention.

Across the table, my wife “Special K” was tucking into her mushroom gnocchi.

“Wow, it’s super rich and those mushrooms pack a meaty punch,” she said.

“I can just picture nonna ladling in the cream.”

“The mushrooms are good quality and super fresh”.

I had a sneaky taste and the gnocchi was perfectly cooked and had a lovely velvety texture, but the dish was too rich, and after a few mouthfuls my tastebuds were waving the white flag.

As a little side treat, I munched away on a few slices of Re’s mild cacciatore ($34.95/kg),

Far superior to the stuff you get in the supermarket, it had a lovely subtle heat and plenty of flavour.

I also enjoyed some of Re’s sopressa ($35.95/kg) a type of salami with a slightly spicy tang. Very enjoyable.

It’s worth going to the sprawling Re Store just to have a look around. 

From the kitsch sign outside to the mind-boggling array of  imported foods, it’s a visual feast.

The roots of the delicatessen stretch back to 1885 when Giuseppe Re immigrated from Italy to Sydney.

In 1894 he was lured to WA by the Kalgoorlie gold rush, but saw another business opportunity and opened a deli in Fremantle, selling provisions to miners.

Giuseppe and his wife Carolina had a whopping 10 sons and the second eldest Giovanni (John) opened a grocery store in 1936 on the corner of Lake and Aberdeen streets in Northbridge – the original Re Store.

Today, The Re Store is still owned and run by the third generation of the family.

The Re Store
231 Oxford St, Leederville
the-re-store.com.au
9444 9644