Perth Voice Interactive

WHAT have the Romans ever done for us?

Well apparently they might have invented the beef burger in 1 AD.

I know, it sounds as fanciful as a movie studio at Victoria Quay (other election pledges are available), but it may well be true.

In the ancient Roman cookbook Apicius, it describes a beef patty (Isicia Omentata) made from minced meat, pepper, wine, pine nuts and garum, a rich fish sauce. 

You could buy it from their version of McDonald’s (thermopolia) which peddled street-food to Christians. The primitive patty was introduced to Britain and inspired other dishes like rissoles.

So when I visited JM Burgers in Willagee this week, I wondered if Augustus ever chomped on a quarter pounder or if Constantine removed the pickles from his Big Mac.

Either way, I have never felt so historic.

JM’s menu had a nice range of burgers, chicken wings and loaded fries.

It was somewhere in-between your traditional burgers and the kitchen sink ones – like Elvis on a diet.

Highlights included the Popeye Chicken with Frank’s hot sauce and sriracha mayo, the Ribs Burger with boneless pork rib and hickory bbq sauce, and the Beef n Mac with beef patty and you guessed it, mac and cheese. There was also a fish burger and a pulled pork burger.

Their chicken wings are superb, especially the Buffalo ones, which are coated in the original Frank’s hot sauce. They have about 10 varieties with everything from Korean-style and salted to cajun crunch and honey soy.

But I felt like a burger, so I decided to go for the Charcoal Mushy Beef Burger ($16.90).

The bun was jet black, apart from the sesame seeds, and was visually striking.

I had never tried a charcoal-infused bun before and was expecting more of a smoky hit, but the flavour was quite subtle, and it didn’t have the “wow” factor I was expecting. However, the bun was super soft, light and very tasty.

I don’t like too many fillings in my burger – I like to eat it without having to change my clothes afterwards – and the Charcoal Mushy was right up my street.

Inside was a beef patty with caramelised onion, mushroom and American cheese. 

It had a lovely soft, understated mix of flavours with the garlic aioli adding a pleasant tang.

If you were ravenous, it may have been on the small side, but if you like minimalist burgers, it’s a winner.

Across the table my wife “Special K” was devouring her Pulled Pork Burger ($17.90).

It looked impressive – a towering edifice of six hour slow-cooked pork and chorizo, overflowing with creamy coleslaw. And it tasted as good as it looked.

“The pork is super tender and crammed with flavour,” my wife said.

“I’m loving the smoky bbq sauce and the little bit of heat from the chipotle mayo.

“They haven’t skimped on the pork and it’s a very tasty and high quality burger.”

The accompanying sweet potato fries ($14) were delicious – super crunchy, well-seasoned and lots of them.

My youngish kids brought up the rear with their kids meals ($13 for a beef or chicken slider with chips and a juice box).

All high quality – especially the chunky chips – but the slider is probably only large enough for under 8’s, so if you have older children, you’re better getting a regular burger and halving it. 

I was very impressed with JM Burgers and will be back to try their fried chicken wings.

I don’t know if the Romans invented them or if the B Shed will become a tourism hub, but I’ll find out. 

Veni, vidi, burger.

JM Burgers
75 Leach Highway, Willagee

by STEPHEN POLLOCK