THE Fat Dragon was somewhat of an institituion in Mt Lawley, so I was bit miffed when it closed its doors in January last year.
The food wasn’t spectacular and sometimes the service from the restaurant’s matriarch was like something you would get at a prisoner of war camp.
But it was my comfy go-to for Chinese in Mt Lawley, and occupied a great spot just around the corner from the Astor Theatre.
And of course, it had a killer name. But fear not, from the ashes of Fat Dragon has risen the Japanese/Korean eatery Ittaba.
The garish, flamboyance of the old Chinese has been replaced with Japanese minimalism – muted colour scheme, understated decor, wooden carvings and a stylish bar.

The venue still has the same great layout – bifold doors separate the large alfresco with bistro blinds from the inside, making the venue extremely versatile and a nice place to visit all-year round.
The menu had a wide range of Japanese and Korean dishes including sashimi, sushi, salad, curry, rice, bento and noodles.

All the old favourites were covered as wells as a few curve balls like buldak cheese lollipop chicken, sizzling mapadubu, and mackerel misoni.
There was also a kids menu and a couple of desserts (mont blanc, fried banana miso caramel with ice cream).
There was plenty to choose from and it was all very reasonably priced.
With the nights starting to cool (I had to exhume my jacket from the wardrobe before going out) I decided to order the soft-shell crab curry ($26).
It was a wise decision, and it wasn’t long before I was tucking into a steaming bowl of comforting goodness.
Lurking in the murky sauce was a dainty deep-fried crab, it’s pincers poking through the spicy summit. It tasted delicious when combined with the mound of sticky fragrant rice.

The core of the dish – the sauce – had just the right level of heat and viscosity.
The dainty crab had a hint of sweetness and light batter, but it was the moreish sauce that really hit home. A comforting classic.
Across the table my wife “Special K” was devouring her vegetable and egg don ($16).
It was a hearty serve with the bowl overflowing with tempura egg plant, red peppers, shallots, tofu and rice.
“It’s got a subtle, slightly sweet sauce and all the veggies taste super fresh,” she noted.
“I’m not usually a fan of tofu, but it’s perfectly cooked and has a nice texture.
“A tasty and very filling dish, which I’m struggling to finish.”
The kids meals were very reasonably priced and Bamm-Bamm and Pebbles got a large serve of chicken katsu rice with miso soup ($11 each).
They also shared a child’s portion of hosomaki avocado roll ($7) which was nice and fresh.
Ittaba is licensed and I washed down the curry was a nice bottle of Asahi ($9).
The service was good throughout with lots of smiles and a “How is your meal?” from the waiting staff.
Overall, it was very enjoyable with big serves, affordable prices and quality produce.
Ittaba is a worthy successor to the Fat Dragon and I will be back to try some of their other dishes.
Ittaba
4/80 Walcott street,
Mount Lawley 6050
ittaba.com.au
by STEPHEN POLLOCK