A mood for Coode food



The Coode Street Cafe is tucked away in the back bits of Bayswater’s slice of Mt Lawley but the secret has been well and truly out for years now.

On a rainy Thursday lunchtime the place was heaving with customers. And little wonder, with the cafe groaning under the weight of a slew of “best breakfast” awards collected since 2007.

Breakfast, lunch, coffee and cake: Coode Street does it all brilliantly.

Take one look at the food cabinets with the contents glistening like Crown jewels and promising a sweet or savoury gem, and it’s no wonder.

The range of cakes immediately caught my attention: Too vast to mention, but suffice to say I wasn’t going to overdo the savouries.

Lit up like a Broadway play there were plenty of these on display too, including chicken pies, bacon and leek tarts, smoked salmon, goats cheese and asparagus tarts and quiches.

Apart from a couple of sweet things everything is made on the premises, owner Terry Burgon told the Voice.

The cafe started as a deli 20 years ago and “converted” from there, he says, adding it’s been a long process.

Getting down to business I pointed to the sweet potato and spinach tart ($15.50).

The mix of sweet potato and the sharpness of feta, with a perfectly cooked pastry case was great, as was the homemade beetroot and pumpkin salad it came with.

It was “buyer beware” for Dave, who’d ordered the tuna patty ($15.50) without reading the fine print.

They were delicious but, with feta mixed through, weren’t a suitable choice for my cheese-allergy afflicted man.

The waiter was a delight, whipping away the patty and in no time returning with a couple of free-range poached eggs on toast.

“Creamy,” hubby declared, his happy smile restored.

The lemon zingers ($7.50) we washed our food down with were terrific, the sharpness of the lemon winning out over the sweetness of the apple, and a pleasing ginger “zing” after taste.

Time to revisit the cake cabinet. “It’s like a Cherry Ripe,” the waiter said as I eyed off a slice of the lovebite ($7.50).

One of the few cakes not made at the cafe, it came from North Fremantle sweeties Rawsome.

Based on the Paleo diet they’re raw, gluten-free, grain-free, dairy-free, egg-free, sugar-free—and one would think taste-free, but how wrong one would be. A Cherry Ripe it was, on steroids, a rich chocolate delight, topped with shredded coconut. If this is good for you, sign me up.

D’Angerous went for the lemon meringue ($7), and reckoned it could have been sharper but that didn’t stop him eating the lot.

Two hours passed in a flash as we talked, ate and watched the rain fall gently over the tree-lined street from the warmth of our window seat. Blissful.



Coode Street Cafe
Corner Coode St and Third Ave, Mt Lawley
Open 7 days 7am–5pm
9371 9900

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