Wee name, big flavour

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WEE BAR perfectly embodies what small bars were meant to be about—a classy place for a high-end nibble and a cautiously curated selection of drinks.

The French bar was started up by Iain Lawless, who used to run the well-regarded Kitsch further down the road, and the food has his trademark playfulness and mixing of ingredients.

The trout pastrami ($10) is an oddy but a goody, with the curiously pureed flesh mounted in a Mr Whippy swirl atop a seared potato skin base and sitting in a puddle of smoked ketchup.

Wary of how trout pastrami could work I had to be talked into this dish, but the end result is a nicely balanced mix between the fresh fish, the crisp potatoes and the smokey sauce.

The hot chorizo ($7) is served with roasted capsicum, drizzled with light aioli and served up in a milk bun like a little burger. Between the gently sweet Asian bread, tangy aioli and bitey chorizo, it’s a dish with a pretty broad and appealing palate, and I only wish I’d ordered more than one.

The duck confit ($15) is a superbly priced dish considering the size of the meaty leg you’re served up with. The skin is beautifully crisp, the flesh rich and tender, and it’s laid atop a refreshing orange salad with fresh rocket and red cucumber.

The chicken wings ($12) are clad in a crusty carapace of spices hiding a juicy inner, and nicely matched with a sharp tomato, pickle and sage sauce.

Along with top-notch food the staff are fantastic, too. They’d have to be some of the friendliest I’ve come across in Perth, knowledgeable about the food and full bottle on the boutique foreign beers and the healthy-sized wine list (about a dozen reds and whites each).

It’s also affordable, with dinner for two (and plenty of food across five dishes) coming in at a breezy $57. It’s been a long time since we’ve been able to eat at a top-notch place for that wee amount of cash.

The menu also looks like it’s constantly updating: We went twice in the space of a few weeks and spotted little alterations here and there, and we’ll definitely be back given its affordability.

by DAVID BELL

Wee Bar
406 Oxford St, Mt Hawthorn
Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

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