Perth Voice Interactive

IAN CHIN may own Noodle Forum but readily bows to the experience of Erich Wong, who is teaching his younger boss the ancient art of noodle-making.

As the Voice looks on, 57-year-old Wong bounces his body weight on a thick bamboo pole, compressing a wad of dough. It’s a process repeated many, many times before the thin dough is cut into delicate, thread-like strips.

The pair eschews modern technology, saying it’s this process, dating back hundreds of years, that gives their noodles a far superior taste and texture.

“We can cut it so fine because of the firm texture,” Chin says.

“With machines you need additives to compensate for the process. We don’t use crazy additives—it’s just the pounding.”

Noodles originated in China before spreading throughout SEAsia, and were once only for the rich and privileged, “because they are a lot of work and use a lot of eggs,” Mr Chin says.

These days they are enjoyed by people far and wide but few are still made traditionally: it’s a skill Mr Wong learned from his Malaysian father more than 40 years ago.

My lunch companion and I joined the queue waiting for a table, while inside the small eatery was buzzing like a crowded bazaar.

Chatting to fellow queuers I discovered many are regulars, including one who is there six days out of seven.

The service is fast, efficient and warmly welcoming. Before long we were chowing down—me on delicate, pale green spinach noodles and my mate a bowl of beef brisket noodles. Both $11.90.

The WA-sourced wagyu beef was so tender it almost fell apart at the touch of a fork and the sauce was “superb”, was the verdict.

Topped with stir-fried local mushrooms, wilted choy sum and bean sprouts my dish was equally delicious, the freshness of the noodles clearly evident. And I loved the crispy fried tofu.

As good as the food is, this isn’t the sort of place one lingers, so we stepped across the arcade to Pulp for coffee and cake, well actually coffee, cake and a strong hot chocolate: “Properly hot and strong, which is a rare thing,” my mate opined.

He was pretty happy with his slightly warmed chocolate and coconut slice ($3.80) too.

Being virtuous is easy I thought, tucking into an absolutely delicious house-made crunchy granola biscuit ($4), while sipping a very fine long black coffee ($4).

by JENNY D’ANGER

Noodle Forum
Pulp
Equus Retail Arcade,
580 Hay Street, Perth