Sweet surrender

LET them eat cake,” Marie Antoinette is famously supposed to have said, not long before Monsieur Guillotine ended her privileged and tragically short life.

So rocking up to Sugar & Nice in Mt Lawley I did — a raspberry, pistachio and white chocolate blondie (a fudge-like cake), a friand, a double choc brownie, and a mini-jam doughnut – and topping it all off, a slice of banana bread.

Okay so maybe I’d gone bananas, but was it worth it? Absolutely.

Were my sugar levels through the roof? You bet.

The richness of the chocolate brownie ($5) would put Versailles in the shade, the crisp crust giving way to a chewy, gooey interior as outrageous as Antoinette’s towering hairdos.

But for sheer decadence the banana bread ($7.50) was majestic, the toasted slice drizzled with salted caramel sauce and finished off with a dollop of mascarpone and almond slivers.

938FOOD

The banana flavours came through with a roar, followed by the sweet, but slightly salty caramel, while the rich mascarpone finished it off with a silky sheen. It really was fit for a queen.

The blondie had a crunchy topping with a sweet spicy centre redolent of cinnamon, and a pleasant nuttiness thanks to a liberal sprinkling of pistachios.

They’re gluten free, and not just for the gluten intolerant: “The texture is fudgey, and nicer than normal flour,” owner Marnee Rinaldi says.

At first bite the cinnamon in the friand hid the fresh apple flavour, but a moment later it arrived on the palate in perfect unison with the sweet spice.

A particularly good long black coffee diluted the sugar overload, and in hindsight I should have had a second.

The cakes are made in-house by Ms Rinaldi, who went from graphic design to baker after a Sex and the City tour in New York that took in the Magnolia Bakery: “I wanted to bring that back to Perth.”

The Mt Lawley local’s interest in baking was sparked when, aged 15, she went to her first wedding and fell in love with the cake, and began making them for friends and family.

Sugar & Nice has been operating for two years, and there are a few savoury choices, including bagels and focaccia, but the name says it all and this little eatery is about sugary decadence.

Go for a right royal indulgence, your arteries may not thank you but your taste buds will.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Sugar & Nice
882 Beaufort Street, Inglewood
0409 664 490
open 7 days 8.30am–5pm,
Tues and Fri until 9pm

938 Estia 10x3 938 Red Cray 10x3 938 A Fish Called Inglewood 10x3 938 Sienas Sister 10x2.3

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