The food cycle

I’D just finished a photo shoot with someone whose job it is to know North Perth inside-out, so I figured I’d go pre-Millennial and make her my real-life Google: “Point me to the best cafe in town”.

Without hesitation she sent me off to The Old Laundry on Angove Street, saying it’s got the nod from locals.

Enlightened

I’d almost stopped there a trip or two earlier, but when I saw it was a wine bar I had continued on up the road, concerned the emphasis might be on grog rather than food; I’m so glad I was enlightened.

A place this good deserves a Trump-like exaggeration of the crowd to make it seem even funkier and happening, but the reality is, it was a Tuesday afternoon, and there was only a couple of souls around.

Even so, the decor’s relaxed and had enough character to generate an ambience without a crowd — the old steam engine harking back to its industrial roots is an eye-opener.

There were only a few items on the lunch menu, but brekky is well covered and the Laundry gets good feedback on that front.

I found the lunch descriptions a bit sparse, hinting at something enjoyable rather than promising a bold and delectable meal, and I found myself unable to make a decision.

But a friendly and attentive waiter helped out by suggesting the Korean grilled barbecue chicken ($26) and it was marvellous.

The chicken was beautifully marinated and cooked; there were plenty of deep brown pieces coated in a sweet, thick sauce and topped with just the right amount of sesame seeds and a refreshing sprig of coriander.

The juicy flesh was complemented by a few cobs of roasted baby corn.

When the dish arrived it looked like maybe they’d been under the flame a little long, but once I crunched into one, that thought disappeared as fast as they did.

Both were accompanied by a miso mayonnaise, which was probably supposed to last throughout the meal but was so delicious it got slathered onto everything and was gone before half-way.

The Old Laundry cops the odd criticism for small portions, but this was a really good value meal and left just enough room to consider a dessert.

I finished up with a torte ($8) and a silky smooth flat white ($3.50) and left thoroughly satisfied.

by STEVE GRANT

The Old Laundry
22 Angove Street,
North Perth
6162 1105

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