Chasing shadows

THE name of this Northbridge eatery became apparent the minute we stepped inside—the gloom swirling with dark figures and brooding shadows.

The trendy black-on-black decor at the Shadow Wine Bar is sure to appeal to its groovy-hipster demographic.

• Shadow Wine Bar

Fortunately a single light burned over a booth table, otherwise my dinner companion and I would have struggled with the small print on the menu.

Heading to the State Theatre we were in a bit of a hurry, which didn’t go down well with either of the waiters we alerted to our haste.

Obviously we weren’t young or hip enough to be of great importance, and my companion and I began to worry if we’d make the curtain call.

To the credit of the waiting staff, our beautifully plated food arrived in record time, but still no smile.

The menu is “classic European dining” according to Shadows’ webpage.

There’s a selection of starters, including veal carpaccio ($20), wild mushrooms with radicchio and smoked mozzarella ($16), and a seared yellowfin tuna ($22).

We opted to share from the main menu, with a Shark Bay crab spaghettini ($34), and a roast pumpkin with manchego, black lentils and walnut dressing ($22).

A generous amount of crab flesh ensured this dish was enjoyable, but it didn’t take our palettes to the heights expected: “It’s nice but rather pedestrian,” my well-travelled friend opined.

The pumpkin was a saver: the nuttiness of the black lentils and walnut dressing a great foil for the sweetness of the perfectly-cooked pumpkin flesh.

The dessert menu had our taste buds wanting to stay and try the chocolate nemesis ($14), or perhaps a pear tarte tatin with tonka bean ice cream ($15).

Hailing from South America, the tonka is said to be so good it should be illegal, so perhaps a revisit is on the cards.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Shadow Wine Bar
214 William Street,
Northbridge
6430 4010

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