Hats off to Fez

THE empty plate looked as forlorn as I felt and like Oliver Twist I was thinking, “I want more please”.

It wasn’t that I was hungry, but rather that the roast marinated field mushrooms ($21) were magnificent.

The chunky slice of toast was laden with mushrooms, rocket, capsicum, cucumber and hazelnuts.

There was an almost religious moment when I tried the house-made onion jam, and the romesco (a Spanish nut and red pepper sauce) was equally divine.

Then I cut into a slice of grilled kefalograviera cheese and I lamented that my fall-back staple—mushrooms on toast— would never be the same again, as the flavours melded in perfect harmony in my mouth.

I’d been hearing good things about Fez, in Mt Lawley, since new owner Urim Alimi took over two months ago.

He happily admitted to having little knowledge of the restaurant business: “This is my first, I was in industry, construction mostly.

“It’s a new beginning for me and I’m learning every day.”

The menu is a work-in-progress and while he’s already added eggs benedict ($15, or $21 with salmon) and a burger that was made from grass-fed beef ($21), he’s looking at a Moroccan style beef dish, and a beef or pork salad: “I’m not sure which yet,” he says.

The original wall mural of the ancient city of Fez was replaced by his predecessor with a gorgeous painting of what looks like a Celtic warrior princess with a massive golden eagle on her outstretched, gloved hand.

Fez’ cakes are made in-house: “And some are made by my family,” Mr Alimi says.

• Fez owner Urim Alimi is new to the industry, but showing himself to be a quick learner, with the cafe putting out magnificent food.

I opted for a peanut butter brownie ($7).

The massive slice was so rich and chewy I struggled, but so delicious I wasn’t about to be defeated and ate the lot.

And I washed it down with one of the best lemongrass and ginger teas ($4.50) I’ve had in a long time.

For the caffeine-addicted, I’ve heard good things about the coffee too.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Fez Cafe
83 Walcott Street, Mt Lawley
9328 9999

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