Top of the teow

A GOOD kway teow is a wonderful thing, but probably not enough to warrant a write up of The Zenith, so it was back the following week to sample other dishes on the menu.

At $12.80 the lunch specials are so well priced I’m thinking this little eatery on the fringe of Leederville’s cafe strip will be getting lots more visits.

Kway teow was once the cheap staple of peasant labourers in South East Asia, but the simple flat noodle dish has been gentrified, with the inevitable “gourmet” versions popping up.

I’ve had it in posh Asian hotels for breakfast, from street vendors for lunch and dinner, and eaten it in any amount of restaurants in Perth.

Zenith’s kway teow is as good as I’ve tasted: the noodles deliciously oily and garlicky, the vegetables holding their crunch perfectly.

On my second visit to Zenith, the rain lashed the window panes, so I ordered a curry laksa soup ($12.80) to banish the winter blues.

The welcoming waiter promptly delivered a plate of complimentary prawn crackers to munch on while I waited for my lunch.

It was a short wait, and I was soon engulfed in savoury steam as I tucked into a massive bowl of spicy soup, with an assortment of al dente vegetables and thick and thin noodles.

The serve was so generous I took a doggy bag home for dinner.

The al a carte menu (lunch and dinner) is mind-boggling with 186 dishes, including everything from Peking duck pancakes ($32.80) to vegetarian stir fried noodles ($14.80).

The service was great, and the eatery’s interior simple and uncluttered, if perhaps a tad spartan.

by JENNY D’ANGER

The Zenith
209 Oxford St, Leederville
9443 8888
Lunch Mon–Fri 11am-2.30pm
Dinner 5pm–9.30pm

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