SITTING in C Restaurant—slowly revolving 33 storeys above St Georges Terrace—you realise people are right when they compare Perth to a country town.
When you point out the various landmarks across the city you could be talking about Northam or Toodyay—there’s the footy oval, the main strip, the bowling club, the park, the courthouse and the river.
It’s all a little uninspiring.
But beyond the city the views are spectacular, with the green hills on one side and the beautiful blue hue of the Indian Ocean on the other.
It literally takes your breath away.
Like any restaurant which has stood the test of time, C’s food can be hit or miss.
Thankfully on this occasion they knocked it out of the park.
According to the menu, C’s most famous dish is the potato gnocchi with blue cheese ($35).
It’s so 70s I wondered if I should have worn tan bell-bottoms and left my keys in a bowl at reception.
The dense gnocchi pillows were coated in a rich Napoletana sauce mixed with sharp gorgonzola cream and finished under the grill.
As part of my order I included fresh Manjimup truffle shavings (1g for $5), which added a subtle earthiness to this luscious dish.
Kangaroo ($21) is a favourite of mine and the char-grilled option at C’s is divine; the tenderness of the meat a testament to the restaurant’s experienced chef.
It’s obvious to partner the gamey meat with beetroot, but the buffalo ricotta gnudi—gnocchi-like dumplings made with ricotta cheese instead of potato—was the star accompaniment. Gnudi is an English-adopted Tuscan word for naked, and the dumplings were certainly lighter than their starchy counterpart, with the ricotta adding a slight tang.
The trio of pork ($39) was an attractive stratum of juicy meat, pureed vegetables and sweet charred onions, all brought into focus by a thick charcuterie sauce.
The cube of pork belly was crowned with crunchy crackling, and the large medallion of tender Timber Hill pork loin was a standout.
It was great to see WA’s only revolving restaurant wasn’t as lifeless as our croquette: C’s was packed during our lunchtime visit on Saturday, which I took as a sign that it’s back on punters’ radars.
by MATTHEW EELES
44 St Georges Terrace