A triple treat

IF you’ve ever cried into your porridge or crawled back under the doona because Mt Lawley’s Three Coins restaurant isn’t open for breakfast or lunch during the week, then perk up – it’s finally here!

You’ll have to head up Beaufort Street to the corner of Second Ave, but there you’ll find the Trequattrini family has taken running a second business in their stride – in fact, they’ve excelled.

Trio opened a fortnight ago and is a wonderfully funky addition to the Mt Lawley scene. It’s light and modern, with cosy tables if you’re discussing the morning papers, or bar stools overlooking the busy street so you can people watch.

One of those walking by happened to be chef Luca, who made what was obviously a genuine inquiry about how I found my meal.

The answer was “divine”.

I started with a plate of gnocchi ($24), which was a modest portion but just blitzed it for quality and taste.

The dumplings themselves were perfectly textured and the taste of potato just cut through a delicate pesto-based sauce.

Bright red cherry tomatoes, yellow chrysanthemum flowers and a few fresh herbs made it look like a work of art, and added an extra zing to every mouthful.

One of the best bits of news about the Trequattrini’s move is that matriarch Sabrina is still in charge of the baked treats; her chocolate cake was exquisite.

With a heavy hint of hazelnut it was so moist, and the thin covering of chocolate icing—dusted with some shredded coconut—meant it was deliciously light. 10 out of 10 for chocaholics.

I managed to squeeze in a bombolone, which if you’ve not come across it before is a delicious Italian take on doughnuts. I chose the in-house jam as a filling, which was the perfect accompaniment to the soft, doughy flesh.

The coffee was so delicious I went for a second cup.

I was also incredibly impressed with the service; I was a little early for the lunch menu so decided to sit over a coffee and the paper till the clock ticked over.

A few minutes later the waitress offered to take the order and nurse it so I could concentrate on the news and not worry about watching clocks. She also checked regularly through the meal to make sure everything was top-notch.

by STEVE GRANT

Trio
760 Beaufort Street, Mt Lawley
Tues – Thurs, Sun 6.30am – 10pm, Fri, Sat 6.30 – Midnight
9271 4089

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