Italian spritz

IT’S spritza time!” shouts Mario Tolardo as he glides around tables, squirting soda into huge glasses of bright orange aperol.

The theatrical service from the co-owner of Spritz Spizzicheria and the occasional honking of horns on the busy Scarborough Beach Road, lent an air of Rome to our recent lunch.

And the food lived up to anything eaten in Italy, including the cavatelli alla Norma ($24).

Perfect al dente

The pasta was perfectly al dente with a wonderful chewy springiness, and the braised eggplant and baby tomatoes enriched the sauce, which clung like a parting lover to the doughy morsels.

D’Angerous Dave went for the vegetarian caprese pizza with extra anchovies ($26)—a huge dish dotted with goats cheese and fresh basil leaves.

“It has a really good mix of herbs and is lovely and fresh,” he opined. “And the dough is nicely chewy.”

A pom is never happy unless there’s chips ($8) involved, and Dave was delighted with Spizzicheria’s hot and crispy offering, which came with a invigorating mustard aioli.

My brother John had the fettuccine seafood ($28).

“Delicious,” he declared. “The seafood is good and there’s plenty of chilli on the lips.”

His wife Sally reckoned her five cheese ravioli ($24.50) was fantastically rich and creamy, but thought she’d been given a kids’ portion.

“It’s really yummy and the pancetta is really crispy, but there’s not enough,” she wailed as she eyeballed her empty plate.

As spectacular as the aperol looked, we decided to try the Vermentino ($36), an Italian wine recommended by the waiter.

As promised it was crisp and dry with a clean finish.

Spizzicheria doesn’t offer dessert, but it does own Affogato Gelateria next door.

Sal and I had a panna cotta ($7), a smooth creamy ice cream with a tinge of hazelnut, while John went for the goats cheese and honey ice cream.

“I was very surprised how good it was,” he said.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Spritz Spizzicheria
148 Scarborough Beach Rd, Mt Hawthorn
Open Wed–Sun
12 noon–10pm

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