Golden nugget

NOGGO the dog” gazes quizzically from the wall as you step inside Noggos Kitchen and Coffee in Maylands.

The colourful mural was inspired by the owners’ pooch Nugget and several other mutts in the dog-friendly neighbourhood.

I probably had a similar expression because the last time I dropped in to the tiny shopping complex on Peninsula Road the eatery was called Piccos.

A friend and I were hoping for a repeat of a great meal, and despite a change of name and new owners, we weren’t disappointed.

The lunch menu caters for a variety of tastes and budgets, with soup made in-house depending on what’s fresh and available that week.

With toasted garlic bread it’s a reasonable $15.50, or you can go BLT for the same price.

The mix of turmeric, carrot and sweet apple in the ninja juice ($7.50) got our taste buds tingling, and the drink was slightly earthy with a great ginger kick.

My mate went all carnivorous, ordering the angus beef burger with chips ($18.50).

She drooled over the tender beef and the caramelised onion, licking her fingers as the last morsel disappeared.

I couldn’t go past the ricotta gnocchi ($24) and was in seventh heaven from the first bite at the perfect blend of flavours.

Sitting on a bed of of pumpkin puree the first note was sweetness; in delicious contrast to the sharpness of the artichoke.

The gnocchi was soft and light, and the perfectly cooked broccoli, crisp kale and parmesan were the perfect companions.

Our orange Persian cake ($6) was made in-house and had a pleasant citrus sharpness, overlaid with spices of the east.

The brownie ($5) was rich, moist and decadently western.

The eatery’s service was efficient and friendly, and judging by the way staff greeted customers, locals are making it their second home.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Noggos Kitchen and Coffee
38 Peninsula Road,
Maylands

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