Could Yagan Square be the start of a hospitality resurgence in Perth?
Only time will tell, but the copper-coloured precinct underneath the Horseshoe Bridge is made up of high calibre eateries, offering local and international cuisine like Japanese street food, New Orleans-style po’ boys, honey cakes, gourmet European cheese and pub favourites.
The best of the bunch is the compact pasta joint Wheat St.
Pasta around town is rarely worth paying for, but Wheat St is dishing up Perth’s best.
It’s so good, I’ve returned three times since my first visit two weeks ago.
The menu is limited but every dish is of the highest quality.
The Lamb Ragu ($17) is the kind of stuff culinary dreams are made of – wide strands of pappardelle coil around chunky pieces of tender, pulled lamb and perfectly cooked peas.
I’m not a big fan of coriander but the small handful of fresh leaves added extra depth to the dish, and the pasta was perfectly al dente.
The penne ($16) is served with thick strips of smokey bacon, cherry tomatoes and Kalamata olives drenched in a rich red wine sugo. It’s utterly delicious and topped with a punchy parmesan.
Wheat St’s gnocchi bowl ($16) has a moreish sauce containing buffalo ricotta, roasted pumpkin and firm kale.
The fluffy gnocchi pieces were so large that I could only get through half the dish, but the team were more than happy to pack it up in a doggy bag.
It’s not all pasta at Wheat St, with a variety of lighter options available including salad and bruschetta.
Wheat St’s goats cheese salad is a heavenly combination of salty roasted vegetables, leafy kale and nuggets of luscious, pungent cheese.
Since writing this review, Wheat St has updated its entire menu.
As good as everything was, I can’t wait to get back there a fourth time to discover what they’re cooking up now.
by MATTHEW EELES
Yagan Square, Perth