LAUGHTER and conversation burst through the politically-charged lyrics of Childish Gambino’s This Is America.
Waiters weave through customers darting from the crowded bar to the bustling beer garden.
The Standard in Northbridge is one of Perth’s most feted restaurants and I’m happy to report the cuisine is as electric as the pumping atmosphere.
The rocking soundtrack blaring through the venue’s speakers had us bopping in our seats as we sang head chef Chase Webber’s praises.
Of all the dishes on the menu, the beef shin rendang ($38) is Webber’s magnum opus.
The locally-sourced beef shin is slow cooked to perfection with each chunk of meat as tender the next. The moist beef is swimming in a rich rendang glaze, with roasted peanuts and toasted coconut adding texture and crunch.
A bit like a culinary Excalibur, a half bone brimming with creamy, fatty marrow impales the rendang.
Some may squirm at the thought of eating bone marrow, but if you’re a carnivore I recommend treating your taste buds to the unique flavours.
A bowl of rice would have been great to soak up the rendang, but maybe the chef thinks rice is too pedestrian for such a complex dish?
The caramelised pork satay dip ($9) is not what you’d expect and is more of a chunky, spreadable paste.
Small pork nubs are coated in a knockout sauce that includes coriander, fish essence and peanuts. When spread over the accompanying rice crackers it’s divine.
The Standard’s Masala
deep-fried chicken nuggets ($15) are coated in a dark butter curry sauce and chilli salt.
It’s crunchy, juicy and finger-licking good. And if you find the chilli a bit too lively you can refresh your palate with the yoghurt dipping sauce.
Perth’s booming restaurant scene has a lot of groundbreaking chefs, but Chase Weber at The Standard is one of the most exciting around.
By MATTHEW EELES
28 Roe Street, Northbridge
Phone 9228 1331