Raw talent

THE Modern Eatery is one of the few restaurants in Perth serving sushi seared with a blowtorch to give it a caramelised smoky bite (aburi sushi).

If you haven’t tried the Japanese eatery yet, you are forgiven, as it’s tucked away on Chelmsford Road in Mt Lawley.

But it’s worth seeking out as the presentation and attention to detail are first class.

On a cool winter’s night, we were greeted at the door by the traditional maneki-neko (beckoning cat), and then by the friendly waiting staff.

We were excited to see some modern dishes on the menu like the cheesy tofu and grazing platter, alongside the traditional Japanese fare.

We started by sharing some otaku fries ($8) with seaweed seasoning and aioli.

They were crispy and delectable, and the piquant flavours had our mouths watering.

The assorted sashimi ($22) was beautifully presented on a bed of shredded radish.

My dining partner said it was “one of the best he’d ever had–fresh and pure”.

He followed this up with the fried chicken bao bae ($7) and the wagyu beef bao bae ($7). The texture was in the twilight zone between soft and crunchy, and the dishes had an amazing synergy of flavours.

My vegan poke bowl ($15) was a healthy jamboree of zucchini, tomato, salad leaves, grilled baby corn, enoki mushroom, sprouts, raw tofu and rice.

The dish was topped with crunchy lotus chips and served with a tangy salad dressing.

For dessert we went for the indulgent matcha cheesecake ($9), which had the perfect mix of flavours and textures to end our meal.

If you want some top-quality Japanese food with a modern twist, then check out The Modern Eatery.

by ALEX MURFETT

The Modern Eatery
1/595 Beaufort Street
themoderneatery.com.au/perth/mount-lawley/

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