Deli delivers

 

MY search for the best deli in Perth took me south of the river to Angelo St Market.

Part of a lovely group of shops, cafes and small bars in South Perth, it was formerly the much-loved Scutti, before rebranding in 2019.

Opened in 1988, the deli has become a South Perth institution with the glazed hams a particular favourite with locals at Christmas.

The owners have maintained their high standards and when I visited the narrow aisles were crammed with delightful produce including small goods, pasta, imported sauces, gourmet snacks and freshly baked bread.

The fruit and veg aisle was a highlight – an array of vibrant colours and aromas. 

It’s how fresh produce should be displayed and made you feel like the place really celebrated food.

On Tuesday lunchtime, Angelo St Market was packed with a long line of people queuing for the made-to-order continental rolls.

There was also a hot meals section and a takeaway cafe with pre-made sandwiches that could be toasted – a great range of lunch options.

I had already sampled the delicious rolls on a previous visit – packed with fresh goodies at a reasonable price – so I decided to get some of their made-on-site pasta to take home for dinner.

I plumped for the family-sized vegetable lasagne and cannelloni (both $19.99), which after 45 minutes in the oven at 180C were piping hot with an alluring carapace of golden brown cheese.

The cannelloni was outstanding with the large pasta tubes stuffed with a delicious mix of minced pork and herbs.

It was a moreish stuffing and the pasta was super soft and light, while the tomato sauce and cheese wasn’t too rich (sometimes cannelloni can be too salty and full-on).

The vegetable lasagne was like some haphazard work of art with several thin layers of pasta piled high on top of each other.

Somehow it all held together when cut into quarters for the family to share.

The pasta was again super light and tasty, while the tomato sauce and vegetable filling had an unexpected spicy reprise.

There was definitely spinach in there and a trace of kale, plus a liberal sprinkling of herbs, so maybe they conspired to produce the unexpected heat.

The kids weren’t so keen, but my wife and I enjoyed the salutary burst of veggies in this light and yummy dish.

In for a penny, in for a pound – my post-Xmas diet went out the window when we decided to have pasta as a side with our, ehm, pasta.

Pasta overload? Perhaps, but the cold Sicilian pasta salad ($14.47) was irresistible – a creamy mix of red pepper, ham and fusilli.

Packed with flavour, it would be perfect for lunch on its own or as a side to a salad. Or like me, death by pasta.

The portions were large and there was plenty left for dinner the next night.

Some delis are expensive flops – you spend a lot of money for produce that flatters to deceive or doesn’t fill you up.

Thankfully my trip to Angelo St Market was a success – the goods were high quality and you got decent portions for the price.

Angelo St Market
67 Angelo Street, South Perth
angelostreetmarket.com.au

by STEPHEN POLLOCK

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