GIVEN the litany of superhero films in the cinemas right now, you would be forgiven for thinking “Fish Boss” is a giant, radioactive mackerel that terrorises New York City.
It’s actually a homegrown fish and chip shop that has done very well for itself over the past few years and opened several outlets across Perth.
Like many modern successful restaurants, Fish Boss started out life as a humble food truck.
I first tried its fish and chips at an outdoor event about five years ago and remember being blown away by the quality and value for money. It was surprising as you often queue for ages for sub-standard, over-priced food at these type of things.
So when I discovered Fish Boss had opened a fish and chip shop in Inglewood, I bundled the family into the car and headed up there tout de suite.
Situated just down from Beaufort Street on Ninth Avenue, there’s a decent-sized car park beside Fish Boss so nabbing a space is usually pretty stress free.
On a Tuesday night the place was pumping with people eating inside the smallish cafe and outside on the pavement alfresco, plus a steady stream of folk were picking up takeaways.
Despite being uber busy, the man behind the till was super friendly and made time for a chat and a smile.
The interior was modern and uncluttered with natural wood tables, polished concrete floor, chic downlights and a rather cool neon sign of the moustached “Fish Boss” himself. Playing away in the background was some 90s house tunes, taking me back to my nightclub days.
It had a sort of relaxed beach feel with a stylish inner-city twist.
There was also some bench seating at the window, so you could sit on your own and eat without feeling self conscious.
I really liked their colourful menu design which was fun, but easy to read and navigate.
Fish Boss had a modern range of dishes including classics like beer battered fish and chips, squid and chips, and family platters; tacos and burgers; a healthy range with grilled fish and salad/tacos, and sides like dim sims, potato scallops and onion rings.
They also had some great specials with $12 Taco Tuesdays and $12 Burger Wednesdays. It’s licensed with a nice range of beers too. You couldn’t choose your type of fish, which might put some traditionalists off, but it wasn’t that sort of place.
My daughter’s fish tacos were great value ($12 Tuesday offer) with two large tacos containing two fillets of battered fish each.
It was a colourful affair and they tasted as good as they looked with a tasty mix of smoked corn puree, salt, chipotle mayo, fried black beans, shallots and jalapeños.
I liked how they didn’t drench the fish in sauce (just a dainty drizzle) and you could comfortably pick it up and eat it without it looking like you had dunked your face in mayonnaise.
The fish was good quality with lovely moist flesh and crispy, light batter.
My healthy captain ($18) was great value for money and arrived in a bowl with two grilled fillets perched on a colourful heap of avocado, corn, tomato salsa and brown rice.
It was great combination with the chickpeas providing some texture, the brown rice a nutty footnote, and the avocado full of flavour.
The fish had a nice crispy skin and was lovely and fresh, but it was a bit over, but still very enjoyable.
Across the table, my wife was enjoying her fish burger and chips ($19) – two beer battered fillets in a brioche bun with slaw, salad and tartare.
“As good as I remembered from all those years ago,” she noted. “The chips are spot on and the fish is nice and light with a crispy, non-greasy batter.”
My young son rounded things off with a perfectly sized Little Boss (kids fish and chips $9) in a cute basket. He polished it off no problems and thought it was delicious.
Fish Boss is a delicious, fun affair that brings the fish and chip shop into the modern era.
2/882 Beaufort St, Inglewood
By STEPHEN POLLOCK