ARTWORK dominates an entire wall at Locale, the newest eatery on the increasingly diverse Angove Street in North Perth.
When my lunch companion and I ventured inside a series of Robert Simeon photos — a pictorial wander into the heart of America — greeted us.
The soft-focus, almost watercolour tone rendered them poignantly beautiful.
“The wall” is a designated art gallery showcasing local artists and is a great entry statement for the restaurant.
Having satisfied our artistic eye; we settled down to satisfy our bellies.
Locale’s food is inspired by southern Italian cuisine, with simple, seasonal food that is sourced locally wherever possible.
I toyed with ordering the pan fried lemon scented ricotta gnocchi ($22), but thought I’d bored readers enough with my gnocchi obsession.
So I went for the handmade linguini ($20), which on first taste was almost a Road to Damascus moment.
The wild mushrooms had been sautéed in butter giving them a rich caramelised flavour while still maintaining a firm texture.
The ricotta curd, was a bit like labneh, but lighter, and the truffle oil ensured this was a rich and delicious dish–a match for any gnocchi.
My mate ordered the house beetroot and grappa-cured salmon ($21).
The salmon had been coloured with beetroot and curled to form a beautiful pink-rose tone.
It sat atop a lentil and freekeh–a cereal made from green durum wheat, roasted and rubbed to create a unique flavour–and accompanied by a yoghurt cumin and lemon dressing.
“The flavours are subtle and light but the lentil and freekeh give it a solid base. The creaminess was light thanks to the yoghurt,” my friend opined.
The serve was so generous she took home a doggy-bag for dinner.
Locale is licensed and we could have enjoyed a vino, but stuck with water in the interests of safe driving, and a clear head.
But a very good long mac and a beautifully served lemongrass and ginger tea were the perfect accompaniment for a moist and sharp lemon ricotta cake—a delicious gluten-free cardamon, rosewater, apricot and almond cake topped with pistachios.
by JENNY D’ANGER
36 Angove Street,