Arty delight

ARTWORK dominates an entire wall at Locale, the newest eatery on the increasingly diverse Angove Street in North Perth.

When my lunch companion and I ventured inside a series of Robert Simeon photos — a pictorial wander into the heart of America — greeted us.

The soft-focus, almost watercolour tone rendered them poignantly beautiful.

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“The wall” is a designated art gallery showcasing local artists and is a great entry statement for the restaurant.

Having satisfied our artistic eye; we settled down to satisfy our bellies.

Locale’s food is inspired by southern Italian cuisine, with simple, seasonal food that is sourced locally wherever possible.

I toyed with ordering the pan fried lemon scented ricotta gnocchi ($22), but thought I’d bored readers enough with my gnocchi obsession.

So I went for the handmade linguini ($20), which on first taste was almost a Road to Damascus moment.

The wild mushrooms had been sautéed in butter giving them a rich caramelised flavour while still maintaining a firm texture.

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Ricotta curd

The ricotta curd, was a bit like labneh, but lighter, and the truffle oil ensured this was a rich and delicious dish–a match for any gnocchi.

My mate ordered the house beetroot and grappa-cured salmon ($21).

The salmon had been coloured with beetroot and curled to form a beautiful pink-rose tone.

It sat atop a lentil and freekeh–a cereal made from green durum wheat, roasted and rubbed to create a unique flavour–and accompanied by a yoghurt cumin and lemon dressing.

“The flavours are subtle and light but the lentil and freekeh give it a solid base. The creaminess was light thanks to the yoghurt,” my friend opined.

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The serve was so generous she took home a doggy-bag for dinner.

Locale is licensed and we could have enjoyed a vino, but stuck with water in the interests of safe driving, and a clear head.

But a very good long mac and a beautifully served lemongrass and ginger tea were the perfect accompaniment for a moist and sharp lemon ricotta cake—a delicious gluten-free cardamon, rosewater, apricot and almond cake topped with pistachios.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Locale
36 Angove Street,
North Perth
open
Mon 7am–4pm,
Tues–Saturday 7am–10pm
Sun 8am–2pm

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