WINKEL is Dutch for shop and Koffie Winkel literally means coffee shop, but don’t worry, there’s no jazz cigarettes on sale at this Northbridge cafe.
It’s borderline heresy to admit you prefer a cup of tea in coffee-obsessed Perth, but give me an Earl Grey any day of the week.
In saying that Winkel might just have converted me with its cold brewed nitro ($5), a rich and creamy cup of Joe with a sweet-smooth finish.
Apparently the nitrogen reduces the acidity in the coffee, making it easier on the stomach.
The icy cold brew lived up to the hype and was so large it lasted until I was finishing lunch with one of the best cheese cakes ($6) I’ve ever tasted.
Topped with a thick layer of raspberries, the centre of the cake was made properly and not thickened with gelatin.
The sharpness of the berries was in perfect harmony with the creamy, just-sweet centre, and the caramel biscuit base added a distinctive tang, making this heaven on a plate.
Hailing from Holland, brothers Daniel Janssen and Ruben Snijders opened Koffie Winkel in Northbridge just under two years ago.
Locals and family and friends helped with the fit-out, including making the light fittings, the timber-top bench tables, and wooden stools inspired by old Dutch school chairs. Polished concrete floors, steel fittings and timber seating give the cafe a “Dutch industrial look”, Janssen says.
The look is cool and trendy but the service is warm and friendly, and when Janssen asked if I wanted coffee while waiting for my meal, I felt it would be rude to refuse.
There’s no salted herring on the menu, but you will find buttermilk fried chicken ($15) and pulled pork burgers ($14).
I opted for the veggie stack version ($14).
The lightly toasted roll was piled high with whole mushrooms, haloumi, rocket and roasted capsicum and zucchini.
It was love at first bite as the chilli mayo united all the vegetables in a harmonious whole.
And a side of fluffy soft potato cubes had an interesting and delicious smoky flavour.
Situated on the outer-western fringes of Northbridge it’s easy to miss Winkel, but it’s well worth venturing further down James Street to try it out.
by JENNY D’ANGER
222 James Street, Northbridge