Tikka this off

HUMPTY DUMPTY sat on a wall, where the poor old egg fell into a vat of curry at the Royal India Restaurant. All the king’s horses and all the king’s men couldn’t pull him out again – so he became curried egg and was enjoyed by all.

No eggs died for our lunch at the West Perth eatery, although a number of vegetables sacrificed themselves in the cause of a delicious tiffin for the D’Angers. Mushrooms were the first to fall on their sword so we could enjoy a superb tikka ($15). Cooked in a clay oven, the mushies were perched on the plate like small red apples, thanks to the tikka paste coating. Stuffed with paneer and a lime pickle, they were piquant and savoury.

“The mushies have a cool dry-roasted flavour, with tangy cumin seeds on the outside and a kick on the inside,” D’Angerous Dave said.

A request for the recipe was met with a smiling shake of the head from our pleasant waiter, but they were so yummy it was worth asking.

The mushrooms were followed by an entree serve of fish amritsari ($16), aloo gobhi ($17.50), biryani ($16) and garlic naan ($6.50). Also cooked in a clay oven, the fish was dry on the outside, thanks to a coating of chickpea flour, and firm and moist on the inside. Innocent-looking slices of green chilli in the aloo added an extra zing to the potato and cauliflower.

The biryani rice was a hummock of golden brown and yellow, and tasted as good as it looked, whether with the aloo, the fish or on its own. Freshly cooked, the naan had a pleasant garlic oiliness and was perfect to mop up the last of the sauce in the aloo.

The Royal India is fine dining, without being intimidating, in a fresh modern setting with deep, comfy rattan chairs.


Royal India
1134 Hay St, West Perth
Mon–Fri lunch,
7 nights dinner

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