Old faves

IN the ’60s parents sometimes left their kids in the car while they nipped into a pub’s beer garden for a drink.

My sister and I would enjoy a real lemon squash and a bag of chips, then fall asleep on the back seat.

Children’s services would be called in today, but luckily you can ditch the back seat nanny and use the Quarter Acre Hotel in Applecross for a more kid-friendly version of taking the kids to your local.

Kids are so welcome there’s a sandpit to play in, and a kids’ menu that includes hummus, turkish bread, grapes and raw vegetables ($8), along with burger and chips ($10).

The pub/eatery’s retro decor is a nostalgic nod to a time when socialising had nothing to do with social media.

The interior has simple, clean modern lines, but the real action is in the garden with its shady trees, whitewashed walls and brightly coloured umbrellas.

When the D’Angers dropped in the place was bustling with young families, hip 20-somethings sipping aperol spritz ($15) and well-heeled retirees.

The nibbles menu is priced to avoid breaking the bank, including marinated sardines on a toasted baguette ($12) and a spiced, crispy squid ($15).

Ravenous after a five-kilometre morning walk, sister-in-law Sally ordered a chicken parmigiana ($28), the best she’d eaten, she said.

“It’s mouthwatering.”

Brother John had a steak sanger ($26), with cheese, caramelised onions, pickles, and a side of particularly good chips.

He was impressed with the tenderness of the meat, and the not-too-chunky bread rather than a roll: “So you can really get your teeth into it.”

I was intrigued by the crispy, spiced cauliflower tacos ($13).

The flat bread was soft and chewy, and the filling a wonderful layering of flavours.

Fresh pomegranate seeds were refreshing on the palate and labna added a pleasant creaminess.

D’Angerous Dave wasn’t as impressed with his haloumi burger ($19).

The bun was more Hungry Jacks, he reckoned: “And the sauce was overpowering and the cheese soft and stodgy.”

But he was blown away by dessert, a Bailey’s tiramisu ($12) which was rich, smooth and creamy.

As was my fantastic lime and vanilla bean panna cotta, with pistachios and stewed peach ($13).

By JENNY D’ANGER

Quarter Acre Hotel
767 Canning Highway, Applecross
open 7 days 11.30am–10pm

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