Da rail dail

JB O’REILLY’S, West Leederville

by DAVID BELL:

Fake Irish bars litter the world.

You can stop at just about any airport bar in Asia and come across names like “O’Flanagans”, be greeted by shamrocks decorating timbered walls and be served a pint of Guinness by bartenders as Irish as Jackie Chan.

But JB O’Reilly’s in West Perth is the real deal.

On any given Saturday JB’s is packed out by young Irish folk dancing to traditional tunes from the Emerald Isle in this homely, warm, wood-panelled drinking hall festooned with memorabilia.

And the place has frequently taken out the title for selling more Guinness than any other bar in town (despite Guinness not being the best stout in the world).

The food, too, is steeped in tradition, good hearty fare to stave off the cold. Away from the lively bar area there’s a pretty tastefully outfitted restaurant serving meals a few steps above standard pub grub.

The chicken whiskey pate ($15) is served with rich, fruity cumberland sauce. Spread on a soft, warmed soda bread, the biting sauce commingles nicely with the gently creamy whiskey-tinged pate.

The deep-fried camembert ($14) feels sinful. A crispy carapace gives way to the soft, gooey, salty cheese, served alongside a zesty salad to cut through the dairy. It was deliciously indulgent and I felt a little guilty eating it.

The beef and Guinness pie ($23) is an old classic. This crusty “pie” is an island of pastry floating on a sea of creamy pureed peas and mash. Cracking into the flaky pastry lid, the meat inside is rich and dark and so tender it falls apart. Top notch.

The food is hard to fault, the wine list appears pretty comprehensive to my completely inexpert eye, but the beer choice is a real drawcard too. There’s a wide range of bottled beer and the pints on tap average around $9. It’s rare to get change from a tenner when you buy a pint these days. Maybe that’s why JB’s sells so much Guinness.

SEE THE MENU HERE

MAKE A BOOKING HERE

JB O’Reilly’s
99 Cambridge St, West Leederville
Phone 9382 4555

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